In This Chapter
- Having fun with your dog while you exercise
- Making sure that you don’t push your dog too hard
- Giving your dog activities while you’re away
- Finding time in your schedule for your dog
- Figuring out how much exercise your dog needs
- Finding people to help get your dog the exercise she needs when you can’t be with her
Recognizing the Benefits of Exercise
Tip
In fact, exercise is so important to a dog’s psyche that it’s the first line of treatment for most behavioral problems. Dog behaviorists claim that lack of exercise is a significant contributing factor in over 50 percent of all behavioral problems in dogs.
Warning!
If your dog is seriously overweight (more than 20 percent heaver than his ideal weight), get the thumbs up from your veterinarian before you start him on a serious exercise program. Your vet should give your dog a physical examination, with special emphasis on the heart, lungs, and musculoskeletal system, to be sure that he’s ready to up his activity level.
Remember
If your dog shows signs of fatigue such as excessive panting, grimacing, or scuffing the toes, ease up or stop altogether. Dogs who have a tendency to go until they drop definitely need guidance about when to stop.
Tip
To remain fit and content, a dog should get a minimum of 15 minutes of exercise a day and should have a longer exercise period two to three times a week. Be creative with your dog’s exercise. This is a time when you and your dog can get to know each other better — make the most of it!
Warning!
If you are a fitness buff, be sure to not overexercise your dog. During sustained, repetitive physical activity, lactic acid builds up and breaks down muscle cells. Cells need 48 hours to repair themselves. So if you run with your dog beside you on a leash for more than 30 minutes, give your canine athlete a day off between runs to recover.
Being Creative with Your Dog’s Exercise Routine
Tip
Inject a little variety into your playtimes. After all, too much of even a fun game gets boring. Play different kinds of games in different locales, at different times of the day, with different treats for rewards.
Instinctive activities
Tip
You can harness a dog’s latent herding instinct by inventing chasing games. One fun game is to have your dog sit and stay in the middle of a soccer field, place yourself approximately three-quarters of the way to the goal, release your dog, and start running. See which one of you gets to the goal first. Be sure to handicap yourself, if necessary, so your dog wins about half the time.
Tip
You also can recapitulate vermin-catching games for your Terrier. Drag a bone or a toy over the ground for 25 feet or so, and then bury it in an area of the garden that’s okay to dig in. Watch your Terrier’s face beam as you take him to the beginning of the scent trail and encourage him to “find the rat.” To a Terrier, there’s no delight quite like that of finding the prey and digging it out.
Walking
Remember
Always carry a plastic bag and pick up after your dog (and remind your dog walker or pet sitter to do so, too). Just slip your hand in the bag, grab the dog poop, and then turn the bag inside out over your hand and tie it in a knot. Find a trash can to deposit your package in, or throw it out when you get home. Your neighbors will appreciate your thoughtfulness and you will feel good knowing that you’re doing your part to keep the neighborhood dog friendly. In many locales, this is not just a good idea — it’s the law.
Tip
Try a waist leash, a belt to which you can attach your dog’s leash. Walking or running with your dog when your hands are free to swing at your sides is much easier than having to hang on to a leash the whole way.
Jogging and running
– It’s excellent exercise.
– Your dog learns to stay at your side, regardless of distractions.
– If you run on a hard surface, your dog’s nails don’t have to be trimmed often (or at all) because the pavement will naturally file them for you.
– It’s a great way of bonding with your dog.
Warning!
Don’t feed your dog within an hour before or after strenuous exercise. Some dogs are prone to bloat (a twisting of the stomach due to gaseous intake).
Skijoring
Warning!
Running in deep snow is very strenuous, so reserve skijoring for dogs older than 2 years of age.
Tip
Some dogs get snowballs between the pads of their feet when they play in the snow. You can reduce this problem by trimming excess hair from the bottom of your dog’s feet and between his toes. You also can apply petroleum jelly or cooking spray liberally to the skin between his toes before going outside. Another excellent fix is to have your dog wear booties, which are available at pet supply stores and through companies that sell products for mushing dogs. If your dog runs mainly on packed snow, get booties made of polar fleece. If he runs on mixed snow and gravel or pavement, get booties made of a tougher fabric, such as canvas or Cordura nylon. Booties can also be an excellent aid for the city dog who feels the sting of salt spread on the streets and sidewalks in the winter.
Fetch
Warning!
Be careful when playing fetch with a flying disc. Throw the disc just above the ground so your dog doesn’t have to leap up to catch it. Dogs can suffer severe injuries by twisting their backs or by landing on their rear legs when trying to catch a disc. Try to find a floppy one, made of rubber, to reduce the risk of hurting your dog’s teeth.
Tip
If you can’t throw a ball very far and your dog is looking at you as if she wished she were owned by a baseball star, try using an aid to throw the ball farther. That way your dog will run farther for each fetch, making it more fun for her. Use a tennis racket or a bat to whack the ball as far as possible. Another great invention is the Chuckit, a plastic stick that cups a tennis ball at one end while you hold the other end and swing it. When you let it go, the ball flies up to 250 feet — much farther than if you used your arm. The Foxtail is another type of ball that is easy to throw long distances. This ball has a colorful nylon tail that flaps in the breeze as it trails the ball. If you use the tail to swing it before letting go, you can sling the Foxtail farther than you can throw it.
Swimming
Tip
Many dogs, like the one in Figure 5-1, naturally enjoy swimming, and most can learn if they’re given encouragement when they’re young. The best way to teach a pup to swim is to start by putting on your boots and walking with him in a creek. Creeks have deeper and shallower parts, and eventually your pup will find himself swimming a short distance without even realizing it. If your adult dog is reluctant, get wet yourself and encourage him to join you in the fun. If he is hesitant to swim over his head, use the Hansel-and-Gretel principle: Walk slowly out to deeper waters, depositing dog treats as you go (Cheerios float very well) and offering encouragement. Often a dog’s stomach will overcome his fears.
Warning!
If your water-loving canine is going to swim in a pond, scout the area for broken glass, fishing lines, and other hazards first. If you find broken glass, seek out another place for your dog to swim, because there’s likely to be more where that came from. If he bounds into the water and steps on broken glass, it can cut the tendons that run across the wrist just under the skin of his legs. Tendons are notoriously difficult to repair, and those particular tendons are critical for a dog to be able to walk and run without discomfort — you definitely don’t want to risk it.
Warning!
Never let your dog swim in a pool without supervision. Every year, dogs drown in pools after becoming exhausted trying to find their way out, even when stairs are available. Plus, some breeds, such as Bulldogs, aren’t built for swimming and can drown in shallow water. Be sure that you know your dog’s limitations.
Biking
Warning!
If you decide to give biking a try, take several precautions, because you, and your dog, can easily be injured. First, acclimate your dog to your bicycle. Some dogs would rather chase bikes than run alongside them. Check out Chapter Basic Training and Beyond to teach your dog to heel, and then do the following:
Warning!
No product available will keep your dog watching you instead of wanting to socialize with the neighbors’ dogs as you go by. You might want to begin with walking and running before moving up to bike riding, to train your dog to remain with you regardless of your pace.
Tip
While you ride your bike or run on a hard surface, your dog is running on that surface barefoot! Without the benefit of booties, your dog might injure her pads. Try a pad conditioner (a cream you rub on your dog’s pads) along with booties.
Warning!
Bicycling with an unleashed dog is dangerous. Even on country paths, a loose dog can chase wild animals such as rabbits or deer and become lost or injured. Use an attachment that connects your dog to your bicycle.
Hiking
Tip
Before you leave for your hike, make sure that you’re familiar with the canine-related rules for the area. Most state parks require dogs to be leashed. Regardless of where you go, always have a leash with you in case your dog becomes unruly or more interested in chasing squirrels than in listening to you.
- Heavy panting
- Tendency to lie down whenever you pause
- Droopy eyes and ears
- A slow pace
Horse and hound
Remember
Before taking off in a run, acclimate your dog to horses. Horses are prey animals and dogs are predators, so you have to teach your dog to control her natural instincts and to listen to you from a distance. The guidelines in Chapter Basic Training and Beyond will help you train your dog so that horse and hound is fun and safe for both hound and horse.
Scheduling Time for Your New Dog
Tip
When you make a schedule, stick to it. Dogs are creatures of habit. Knowing what’s going to occur, and when, helps your dog adjust to his new life quickly.
Playtime
Feeding time
Warning!
Don’t place the dog’s dish near a trash can. He might think the can is part of his meals.
6 a.m.: Take him to his relief zone.
6:15 a.m.: Feed him.
6:30 to 7:00 a.m.: Take him to his relief zone and exercise him a bit before leaving for work.
5:30 to 6:00 p.m.: Take him to his relief zone.
6:15 p.m.: Feed him.
7 p.m.: Take him to his relief zone and exercise him a lot.
Puppy
With their faster metabolism, puppies need to be fed more often than older dogs. Consider this sample feeding schedule for a dog younger than 5 months of age for someone who works the regular 9-to-5 job, keeping in mind that there will be an opportunity for the youngster to eat and exercise midday — whether you can come home at that time or have someone do it for you, it’s a must.
Potty time
Puppy
The younger the dog, the more often she has to potty. Keep this in mind when you choose a dog. Do you have the time to take her to her relief zone every couple hours or so? To housetrain a puppy (see Chapter Housetraining 101), you have to do so.
Remember
Male dogs require more time to relieve themselves because they tend to urinate several times instead of letting their bladders empty all at once. They also have to relieve themselves more often throughout the day than most female dogs.
Knowing How Much Exercise Your Dog Needs
Puppies
Puppy
Your puppy will go through several stages of development that affect his level of energy. Some studies suggest that a dog matures the equivalent of 21 human years within his first year of life and 5 years each year thereafter. If you consider the behavioral stages of people (and puppies), this is a good assumption. Imagine taking a child all the way from infancy to the legal drinking age in one year — that’s what you do when you bring home a puppy.
Tip
Consider this overview of the kind of energy levels (and exercise requirements) you can expect from your pup in the first year of his life:
– 4 weeks to 3 months: Between the ages of 4 weeks and 3 months, pups tend to sleep most of the time. They have short bursts of energy but they quickly tire out. A few minutes outside, and they’re beat.
– 3 to 4 months: When a pup is about 3 to 4 months old, his energy level changes a bit. He’ll play more and for longer periods of time. This is when your pup begins testing his position in the pack — he’ll display dominance when he plays with you or other dogs. He’ll get into tug-of-war games in earnest. Fetch becomes a fantastic idea. Chasing butterflies is also very exciting. On average, a dog this age requires a half hour of exercise at least five times a day.
– 5 to 7 months: At the age of 5 to 7 months, your puppy is at the peak of adolescence. This is the period when he needs more exercise than he will at any other time in his life. Not only will he be testing his pack position, but he’ll be very easily distracted and want to do a zillion things at once (just like the typical teenager). An adolescent dog requires at least several hours of exercise each day, especially Herding, Sporting, or Terrier breeds. Your dog needs the freedom to run in a safely fenced area. Play with other dogs is the best means of blowing off steam. Though your pup will quickly tire during training sessions, these aren’t enough to rid him of the zoomies.
– 8 to 10 months: Between 8 and 10 months, your young dog will still be full of energy, but he’s able to channel it a bit better. If you offer regular activities, he’ll be happy to participate. He’ll also begin showing signs of maturity, with a better understanding of house rules. He’ll have more moments of lying at your feet than in the previous three months. An older adolescent dog still needs lots of exercise time — two to three hours each day. His exercise can be a combination of play with other dogs and a regulated activity such as a training session.
– 10 months to 1 year: Between 10 and 12 months, your dog has become an adult. Don’t worry — he’ll still be playful and energetic. In fact, many dogs are energetic well into old age. If you give appropriate exercise outlets, you’ll have a happy, healthy, easy-to-manage companion. Your dog will require a regular exercise regimen, but his activity can be more concentrated, such as training time, hiking, biking, or jogging. The zoomies are gone.
Warning!
Growing dogs need lots of exercise. Confining them daily for extended periods of time is detrimental to their physical and mental development. Young dogs need to stretch their legs and minds as they mature. You need to discover the proper balance to train your dog in the house rules and allow him to “be a dog.” Though you should confine him in a safe area when you can’t be with him, be sure to observe him closely at play when you’re home. Follow an exercise regimen with your dog. If you exercise with him, it can be great for bonding — and for your own health as well as his.
Warning!
An exercise program for a puppy should not include strenuous exercises or long play periods. The growth plates (soft areas at each end of the bones) do not harden until a puppy is 10 to 14 months of age. These soft areas are susceptible to fractures, and even though the bone will heal, it is likely to grow unevenly, resulting in a deformity of the bone. Puppies also are more likely to injure themselves because of their lack of coordination and muscle strength. In addition, puppies are more susceptible to the stresses of heat and cold than are adult dogs.
Tip
Activities for puppies should mix moderate exercise and lots of play. Provide abundant variety and opportunities to visit new environments and meet new people and other dogs. When a puppy is younger than 12 weeks of age (like the one shown in Figure 5-3), play lots of fun games, letting him climb over and crawl under your lap and chase a toy on a string. Give your puppy cardboard boxes, bricks, and other safe objects to step on and explore. At that age, you also can go for a five-minute walk or play in a shallow creek.
Adult dogs
Table 5-1 Breed Group Exercise Requirements | ||
Breed Group | Energy Level | Minimum Hours of Exercise Per Day |
Sporting | High | 3 |
Hound | Medium | 2 |
Working | Medium | 2 |
Terrier | High | 2 |
Toy | Medium to low | 1 |
Non-Sporting | Varies greatly | 1-3 |
Herding | Very high | 4 |
Remember
Table 5-1 lists the minimum amount of exercise a dog needs every day. If you have a Hound and you want to exercise her more than one hour a day, your dog won’t have any problems as long as you increase the amount of exercise gradually, just as you’d do for yourself. But if you have a Herding dog and you give her only an hour of exercise a day, the results could be disastrous. If you’re not giving your dog enough exercise, she’ll find all kinds of creative ways to burn calories on her own — by chewing and digging holes and doing all sorts of things that’ll drive you crazy.
Remember
Dogs are athletes. They need to use their energy in a positive manner. Participating in activities with your dog fills this need while improving the bond you have.
Older dogs
Tip
The trick to exercising your older dog is to break up that hour throughout the day instead of trying to do it all at once. Most older dogs receive plenty of exercise through two to three 20-minute walks each day.
Remember
Whether your dog just entered middle age or has become geriatric, he still needs exercise to remain healthy. As dogs age, arthritis and other physical ailments begin to degenerate their skeletal structure. Regular walks help maintain the muscle tone around their joints, improving their overall ability to move.
Trying Your Paws at Canine Sports
Tip
Even if you never plan to compete, consider enrolling your dog in agility classes sponsored by a local dog club. The classes will give her some exercise, boost her confidence, and stimulate her mind while conveniently training her at the same time. (See Chapter The Ins and Outs of Agility Training for a lot more on agility training.)
Tip
For more information about canine sports, go to www.dog-play.com. This Web site lists every type of canine sport you can imagine and has links to organizations that offer those sports. It is a veritable smorgasbord of canine-play Web sites.
Exercising Indoors
Tip
Doggie play groups in parks are a great way to let dogs exercise each other while the owners watch and chat. Just make sure that you monitor the dogs to be sure there isn’t a canine bully in the group.
Remember
Always watch for signs that your dog is becoming fatigued. Don’t depend on your dog to restrict his own activity when he is tired. Many dogs will literally exercise until they drop because they enjoy it so much. Signs of fatigue include stumbling, an anxious look, excessive panting, and widening of the end of the tongue.
Exercise for dogs with physical problemsEven if your dog has a physical condition such as hip dysplasia or arthritis, she still needs exercise. It’s important to keep her muscles toned so they take over some of the work of the weakened joints. Moderation is the key here: a little bit of exercise every day. Don’t let her be a weekend warrior by overdoing it on the weekend and spending the week on the couch. As your dog gets older, be extra sensitive to signs that she is tiring when she’s out playing. Continue to exercise her daily, but reduce the length and intensity of her exercise enough to prevent her from becoming fatigued. Dogs with disabilities can play, too. Deaf dogs and blind dogs can play in familiar, safe areas. Deaf dogs enjoy toys that blink with lights, and blind dogs can retrieve toys that make continuous noise. Dogs who have had a leg amputated can get around almost as well as a dog with all four legs, and they will enjoy exercise just as much as other dogs. |
Paying Attention to the Heat When You Exercise Your Dog
Technical Stuff
Dogs have limited mechanisms for coping with overheating. Panting is their main mechanism for losing heat. Muscles in the tongue allow it to expand to approximately twice its normal size, increasing the surface area for heat exchange. In addition, blood vessels in the tongue dilate to bring more blood to the surface of the tongue to be cooled. Humidity inhibits the evaporation of moisture on your dog’s tongue and in his mouth and lungs, contributing to potential heatstroke.
Remember
Be sensitive to the possibility of your dog becoming overheated. Human mechanisms for coping with heat are far superior to those of our dogs. So if you’re uncomfortable, you can figure that your dog must be very uncomfortable. Your dog can’t communicate verbally and tell you how warm he feels. Provide him with access to drinking water at all times, let him wallow in a pond or wading pool, or cool him by applying ice packs to his groin. If the temperature outside is hot, forget exercise and let your dog stay cool.
Warning!
Signs of heatstroke include rapid, noisy breathing; a red, enlarged tongue; thick saliva; a body temperature above 106 degrees; staggering; and weakness. A dog with heatstroke should be wrapped in towels that have been soaked in cold water and transported to a veterinarian or emergency clinic as soon as possible. There he will be given further treatment, such as intravenous fluids and perhaps cool-water enemas, as well as treatment for shock, if necessary.
Giving Your Dog Things to Do While You’re Away
Occupying busy paws
Remember
Don’t stay away too long. As a rule, dogs should never be left alone for more than ten hours at a time. Try to keep your absence from home to five or six hours, when possible. Puppies and some older dogs may need potty breaks every two to four hours.
Tip
If your dog’s personal area has a window looking out over a quiet place such as your backyard, place a couch or a safe table in front of it so he can watch the birds and other wildlife while you’re away. It’s usually better if your dog isn’t able to see the activities on the street in front of your house, however, because if he sees the mail carrier bringing the mail to the house, for example, he may bark and carry on, sensing that he should guard the house in your absence. When the carrier leaves after delivering the mail, your dog becomes convinced that his barking has driven him away. If this scenario is repeated day after day, your dog may become quite aggressive toward the mail carrier — and others who come on the property, which is why tens of thousands of mail carriers and delivery people are bitten by dogs every year. Your dog doesn’t need this kind of experience, and the mail carrier certainly doesn’t, either.
Tip
A dog door can be a real boon for a dog who is home alone all day. Whenever he likes, he can go outside into his fenced-in yard, eliminate, catch some rays, chase a squirrel or two, and then go back in to sleep some more. Dog doors are especially helpful for older dogs who may have trouble holding their urine for a full day. If you use this convenience, however, your yard must be completely safe for your dog. He shouldn’t be able to escape by climbing the fence or by digging under it. It’s also best if your dog can’t see the comings and goings of children and delivery people. A dog door works best if it is used in a quiet neighborhood and it opens to an enclosed kennel or to a secluded yard with a secure fence.
Doggie daycare
Tip
The best way to find a reputable doggie daycare establishment is to ask dog-owning friends and neighbors if they know of any. If you come up empty, call a local dog club, a dog-training facility, or your veterinarian for a recommendation (assistants often moonlight as dogsitters).
Tip
During your interview, find out what activities are available and how your dog’s day will be structured. These important questions are worth asking:
– Where will my dog stay when she is resting? The kennel area should be clean and should have bedding and safe toys available for the dogs.
– What does the owner do if dogs have tiffs over playthings?
– How does the owner handle a dog who is aggressive or dominating around others?
– How long do the dogs play each day, how much rest time do they have, and how much one-on-one interaction do they get with daycare personnel?
– What veterinary facilities does the facility use if one of the dogs has an accident or becomes ill? Make sure that the owner has insurance to cover the facility.
Dog walkers
Tip
If you hire a child to walk your dog, always meet with the child’s parents first. They generally are involved in scheduling your dog’s walk around the child’s other after-school events. Their concern for the child’s safety means they’re keeping an eye on your dog, too.
Tip
Adult or professional dog walkers are an excellent option, particularly if you have multiple dogs who may be too much for a child to handle. Many professional dog walkers are bonded and insured, giving you a little more security than you have with a neighborhood kid. Again, try to get a personal recommendation and have a thorough interview before you trust your dogs to a stranger.
Warning!
Don’t hire a dog walker who walks several strange dogs together. This experience can be tremendously stressful to the dogs.
Pet sitters
Tip
The best way to find a dog sitter is to obtain a referral from someone who has used the dog sitter extensively and has been pleased with his work. You can also try the Web site for Pet Sitters International (www.petsit.com) to find a reliable and responsible pet sitter in your area. Or try your vet for a recommendation.
Remember
Always interview a new dog sitter before hiring him. Introduce your dog to him and make sure that they connect with each other. The dog sitter should not appear hesitant to handle your pooch, and your dog should accept his touch. He should appear genuinely interested in your dog and her welfare while you are away. He should ask specific questions about how you want your dog cared for. If you see any red flags, such as hesitance to interact with your dog or evidence of a short temper, the applicant probably isn’t a good match for your dog.
Tip
Before your new pet sitter starts her first assignment, make an appointment for her to spend some time with you learning your dog’s obedience commands and other house rules. If your dog always barges out of the door unless commanded to wait, have the pet sitter also make the dog wait, which will strengthen obedient behavior while you’re away.
– The address and telephone number where you can be reached
– The address and telephone number of an emergency contact near where you live
– Your veterinarian’s name, address, and telephone number
– The name, address, and telephone number of an emergency veterinarian who is available after hours
– Complete feeding instructions (including the type of food, the amount, when and where your dog should be fed, and whether she needs to go out right away after she eats)
– Instructions for exercising your dog (including what activities she likes, for how long, and how often)
– Instructions for picking up the yard, if necessary
– Notes about any medication your dog needs
– Any other habits or needs specific to your dog
– Whether the dog sitter should answer the telephone or let it ring
by Eve Adamson, Richard G. Beauchamp, Margaret H. Bonham, Stanley Coren, Miriam Fields-Babineau, Sarah Hodgson, Connie Isbell, Susan McCullough, Gina Spadafori, Jack and Wendy Volhard, Chris Walkowicz, M. Christine Zink, DVM, PhD